Friday, March 8, 2019

MY JOURNEY FROM LHASA TO KATHMANDU(OVER THE TOP)

                            MY JOURNEY FROM LHASA TO KATHMANDU(OVER THE TOP)

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The Lhasa is renowned for its pristine culture and traditions. Popular for a multitude of images: colorful prayers flags snapping crisply in the cold, clear air, the visual magic of Potala Palace as it rises wondrously from its rocky perch, and delicate threads of juniper smoke winding through densely decorated chapels and musty monastery halls. Traveling between Lhasa and Asia's other mystery-laden city, Kathmandu, is regarded as adventure travel extraordinaire. The Journey provides an unforgettable collection of contrasts in landscapes and cultures.

Flying to Lhasa from Kathmandu, we are a large group of an international mix. We are a large group of an international mix. We gather together at the Tribhuvan International Airport and anxiously scan the sky for blue patches to emerge and enlarge. When at last China Southwest airliner touches down we collectively breathe a sigh of relief; today we will arrive in Lhasa! Boarding the plane there are satisfied smiles on the faces of those who have randomly been awarded the coveted "left-hand side" seats - those with the best views of the Himalaya on our flight north. More than just a standard "mountain flight" which parallels the spectacular range, this 60-minute cruise actually veers down and cuts a path around Mt. Everest.

Curving again the plane drops into a wide brown valley and makes its final descent onto the simple airstrip at Gonggar Airport. As the fuselage doors open, arriving passengers step out into the blinding sun and get their whiff of thin Tibetan air. Bags are quickly loaded into the transport truck and we board the bus bound for Lhasa. Heading down the paved highway we have a two-hour drive in which we can fully absorb our initial impressions of Tibet. The tree-lined roadway is scenic with tractor loads of Tibetans skirting the pavement's edge. Traditional mud farm houses cluster together in small communities. Yaks lumber across fields as we follow the Yarlung Tsangpo river. Arriving in Lhasa (3,650 m) we find our hotel and quickly settle into assigned rooms. Excited to see as much of the city as we can, rickshaws are hired and soon we are flying down the wide boulevards soaking up the city's ambiance. It is a strange mixture of Tibetan and Han culture. Old Tibetan women in worn gray chubby shuffle slowly along the Lingkhor, the longest pilgrimage route around the city passing by a profusion of beauty shops, pool halls, and two-table pubs. The activity and concentration of people seem to culminate at the Barkhor, the old Tibetan part of town where the revered Jokhang Temple forms the central component of a sacred circumambulation path.

In Lhasa, the days pass quickly by as there are many sites to see. Exploring the interior of the Potala with its lavish tomb stupas containing precious relics from previous Dalai Lamas and navigating the richly decorated chapels enhance one's appreciation of the architectural splendor that is expressed here. Day trips to the monasteries of Drepung and Sera provide a quick look at massive assembly halls which are cavernous in size and glow from the subtle light of hundreds of butter lamps.

Too soon we must depart for the next part of our journey, the overland trip back to Kathmandu. As we climb aboard the behemoth bus that is to traverse the contours of this wild land, we all silently wonder if it is possible to negotiate the many hairpin turns and high altitude passes required of the trip. The bus departs Lhasa and leaving paved road far behind, it churns up the first series of switchbacks. Conversation quite as we ascend and travel across alpine land. Huge black yaks with red tassels dangling from each ear snort and dance away from the road as we approach. Suddenly we take another curve and erupt in spontaneous applause. Yamdrok Tso, Tibet's third largest lake shimmers in turquoise clarity from our first conquered pass, the Kampala (4,794 m).

Barreling down toward the lake we continue on through silently beautiful scenery, passing through traditional Tibetan villages and wide expanses of shadowed land. Climbing the next pass we are treated to close approximation of two glaciers seemingly determined to engulf the road. Pausing at the Karola (5,045 m) we watch the everyday activities of a nomad camp and listen pensively to the groaning thunder of the Norinkangsa Glacier massively suspended above.

The arrival at Gyantse is a welcomed one. With the castle-like fortress looming above and cobbled walk-ways leading to the Kumbum Stupa, the charming town of Gyantse is a true emanation of old Tibet. Horse-drawn carts rattle down the road as we walk the next morning in early light eager to explore the ancient Pelkor Chode Monastery. Our destination is easier to reach. A straight, tree-lined road leads to Shigatse. Highlights in Shigatse include visiting Tashilunpo Monastery and encountering the enormous Maitreya Buddha (the Future Buddha) housed there and a friendly visit to the Free Market in town.

The next day begins early as we have a long stretch of road to cover and our highest pass yet on the way to our desolate destination of Shegar. Beginning our climb towards the Lhakpala(5,220 m) the road dries out and dust invades all. Chugging up the twisting road to the summit, we inadvertently engage in a slow-motion race with several Chinese army vehicles and transport trucks. We arrive late in Shegar, or New Tingri as it is frequently called. Due to altitude, appetites are depressed but spirits soar high as we celebrate our high pass crossing with a Chinese food feast.

From Shegar we are heading down to Nepal. Our views of the Himalaya are obscured by rain clouds but occasional breaks provide brief glimpses of the massive snow peaks shining in the sun. Climbing up once again, we cross a desolate stretch where a single nomad guides his scruffy herd to who knows where. We crest the final high point, the Lalungla (5,050 m) and quickly begin our descent. Weaving between peaks, Shishapangma (8,013 m) gleams nearby, while the landscape quickly grows greener. At Nyilamu the road twists and turns dramatically into the clouds as we drop sharply downwards toward Nepal. Gone are the dry desert-like surroundings we have become so accustomed to; lush green vegetation abounds with waterfalls and wildflowers. Cautiously making our way to Zhangmu we are amazed to find it humid and wet. Choosing to walk the final day rather than ride the back of a truck, the two-hour hike to the border affords us our last bit of scenery here. Although we are still in Tibet, the presence of Nepal is strong with topi clad porters passing by and the brightly painted Nepalese trucks hauling goods to Zhangmu above. The Friendship Bridge, the actual border between Nepal and China has the Bhote Koshi river bursting over boulder below.

Crossing into Nepal we savor our first cup of milk tea and have a restorative dal bhat lunch now that appetites have returned. A silent drive back to Kathmandu is spent appreciating the brilliant green rice terraces and lovely faces of the Nepalese children along the road. As we round the final bend outside of Banepa, the sprawling Kathmandu Valley comes into view. Roadworn and weary we have completed the trip. Longing for hot showers and cold drinks we happily rediscover the place from where this arduous journey had begun.



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